Guatemala Beaches | The Yolkobsens Love Monterrico & Livingston

Yolkobsens have a thing for the Guatemala beaches, but for different reasons.

Mrs. Y freckles and burns so likes to sit under an umbrella with a cool and liberally-laced cocktail while she watches the surf and beautiful view from a protected distance. Meanwhile, Mr. Y is the consummate sun bunny, soaking up the sea, sun and sand and tanning like each day is the last sunny day he’ll ever see. Guatemala beaches have something for both of us so we figure there’s something for all visitors. Broadly speaking, there are two great Guatemala beaches that are a sure bet: Livingston and Monterrico.

Monterrico is on the Pacific coast and Livingston is on the Caribbean side. Getting to each area from Antigua Guatemala is about a 6 hour bus trip no matter how you cut it and you have to go through Guatemala City.

Livingston Guatemala Beach

Livingston is a small virtual island town that offers the best of both worlds. Here you’ll find the famed Rio Dulce, meaning sweet river, on one side of the town and a wonderful Caribbean strand, of a different kind of Guatemala beach, just a short 5-minute walk to the other side of town.

There are no land access routes to Livingston. Remember, it’s sort of an island. Although Livingston is situated on Guatemala’s mainland. Access can only be made by water; either by traveling down the Rio Dulce or by entering the port of Livingston on the Caribbean. Boats come frequently from Rio Dulce Town and Puerto Barrios.

From Rio Dulce the Lancha Colectiva holds a virtual monopoly and charges a steep 125 Q(about $15 US) one way for the pleasure of their ‘tour’ down the river to Livingston. All members of the boat (typically 12 or so) have to agree to skip the tour if you want it to go as quickly as possible (shortest: 1 hour). Normal duration 2 to 2.5 hours. It does, however, pass very beautiful scenery on the way.

A ferry leaves Puerto Barrios for Livingston Monday to Saturday at sometime in the morning (sometime around 11:00, but confirm first) and at 17:00. It costs 10 Q (about $1.25 US). Collectivo Lanchas from Puerto Barrios to Livingston leave all day and cost 35 Q (about $4.30).

Boats also arrive on the Caribbean route direct from Punta Gorda, Belize on Tuesdays and Fridays for US$17(there is a BLZ 37.5 departure tax at the immigration office located at the dock). Boats from Punta Gorda to Puerto Barrios run daily and are the only option when it is not Tuesday or Friday. When arriving from another country, make sure to check in with immigration (500 feet uphill from the dock) to get your entry stamp.

Livingston is a very small town and it does not take long to become familiar with the place. The main street running through Livingston is Calle Principal. The majority of the town’s shops, restaurants and bars are situated on this road. Everything else is situated on roads directly leading from Calle Principal. Should you need a taxi, the price is us 10 Q, no matter where you go. Make sure you negotiate the price in advance!

Monterrico Guatemala Beach

Monterrico is the most popular of the Guatemala beaches and also the closest to Guatemala City and Antigua Guatemala. The beaches are full of interesting but awkward steep angles due to the strength of the pounding surf. The ocean floor here drops off very steeply after only 20-40 feet, making the undertow here very strong; only strong swimmers should venture out very far.

This topography also provides some nice waves for surfing. There are lifeguards on duty during the weekend. Don’t forget to bring some sandals as the sand is of the black volcanic variety. It is a stunning feature for the beauty of it, but it is too hot to walk on after 10 a.m. The beach is 50-80 feet wide and stretches for miles. It is busiest (not crowded by any measure) on Sunday, with mostly Guatemalans. Most local girls prefer to swim in sweat shorts and t-shirts although you will find a few who brave a bikini.

By public bus: From Guatemala City to Iztapa (from the bus terminal in zona 4, 05:00-18:00 more or less every hour, 1 hour and 45 min), boat across the canal of Chiquimulilla to Puerto Viejo, and from there by bus to Monterrico (four buses a day). Or by bus to Taxisco, another bus (or pickup truck) to La Avellana, and finally a lancha (boat) to Monterrico. If you don’t want to boat you can now (as of Nov 2008 at least) take roads totally over-land in any combination of bus, mini-bus or mini-van all the way to the main intersection in Monterrico. There are also 3 direct buses from Guatemala City to La Avellana, leaving the bus terminal in zona 4 at 10:30, 12:30 and 14:30 (check the schedule with Transportes Cubanita). By shuttle: From Antigua Guatemala, you can take a direct mini-bus shuttle for $18 US round-trip which leaves at 8 a.m. and returns at 3 p.m. daily.

By car: Head for Escuintla – Puerto Quetzal – Iztapa – across the new bridge (opened October 2007) to Puerto Viejo – and then to Monterrico. Or you can take the Carretera al Pacífico from Escuintla – Taxisco – La Avellana and a ferry to Monterrico.

Lake Atitlan Yolkobsen adventure

Mr. and Mrs. Yolkobsen understand that not all travelers are so blessed that they can spend many months staring at views that defy description. For example, the colours of the lake change by the minute or the hour, aqua to azure blue and back again, often with reflections of the three majestic, but mercifully extinct, volcanoes that dominate the “lakescape.”   But a one-day excursion or overnight stay will at least give you an experience of a unique lake you will not soon forget.

From Antigua Guatemala, the trip takes about 2 1/2 hours via private shuttle or touring bus.
Chicken bus rides, with their own spirited schedules, are slightly longer. Once you get to Lake Atitlan, you’ll get around by water taxi. A regular and organized service operates around the clock til nighttime taking travelers to points around the lake. Cost for a boat ride is around $2.  If you go with a tourism company, you can opt for a package which includes transportation to Lake Atitlan and several of the many Mayan villages that ring the lake.

Lake Atitlán [Lago de Atitlán] is by far the most spectacluar lake in the world to visit. Its green mountain ranges, blue waters and three perfectly shaped volcanoes provide a wonderful view from any of the 12 villages that surround it. Another prime feature to enjoy is the lake’s culture.
A short description of the villages surrounding the lake:

Panajachel is the centered tourist town. From here you can take a boat to any of the other villages, shop or enjoy the biggest variety of hotels and restaurants around Lake Atitlan.
Santa Catarina can be reached by car or pickup truck from Panajachel by road. It has a plaza that holds the town’s main activities, painting galleries and tipica for sale, on the way down to the lake. Here you also find Hotel Casa Palopó and a few restaurants.

San Antonio is a village with many of its people still wearing traditional clothing. While Panajachel’s shoreline is filled with hotels and restaurants, San Antonio still offers onion fields and other natural views. Many tourists visit this village for its ceramics factories and stores.
Santa Cruz la Laguna, only accessible by boat, is a small laid-back village. It hosts famous and unique hotels like “La Iguana Perdida” and “La Casa Rosa.” Many foreign artists reside there. It’s the best place to start shoreline hikes with amazing views of Lake Atitlan.

El Jaibalito and Tzununá belong to the smaller villages at the lake. Over 99% of its population are indigenous Kaqchikel. The two villages are very quiet places to visit but do have tourist infrastructure with Hotel Restaurant “Lomas de Tzununa” and club “Ven Aca”, a restaurant bar on the waterfront in Jaibalito.

San Marcos la Laguna offers reiki, yoga, massages, aromatherapies, Chinese health therapies, reflexology, meditation, holistic treatments and other new age therapies. The famous Las Pirámides Meditation Centre offers a month long Moon-course, which addresses spiritual topics and ends in a week of silence and fasting.

San Pedro la Laguna, like Panajachel, is a true backpacker destination. Many tourists study Spanish here, enjoy horseback riding or climb the San Pedro volcano. The town offers a wide variety of hotels and restaurants, for a low budget.
Santiago Atitlan is the largest community around the lake. It was also the capital of the Tz’utujil culture and many still practice its old traditions. The main street up from the dock offers many stores and stands where the local artisans sell wooden and other handcrafted products. The town offers a small variety of quality hotel-restaurants like Posada Santiago.

Antigua Guatemala Rentals | Weather

Guatemala has commonly been referred to as the land of the eternal spring – a moniker that has persisted as the country’s “Unofficial Brand” since its introduction in 1935 and subsequent use until the mid 1970’s as the canceling text for mail as it left the country for International destinations.
It is still referred to this way even today, as it is considered to reflect the temperate year-round climate that is found in the highlands and is so productive when combined with the fertile volcanic soil for the vast coffee plantations. Although this pleasant climate does persist in the highlands, the temperature and weather can vary dramatically primarily based on altitude and proximity to the coasts: you can experience comfortable spring breezes, hot and humid tropical weather and very cold nights (below 0°C), all in the same day, depending on where in Guatemala you are.
The average annual temperature in the highlands above 3,000 meters (9840 ft) is 15°C (59°F), while in the lowlands the average is 25°C (77°F). In the lowlands and towards the Pacific Coast that preoccupies most fishermen, the temperature can reach 38°C (89°F) or higher and the months with the highest temperatures are from May to July. During the prime fishing season for sailfish however – October through May – the visiting angler can usually be assured of pleasantly warm temperatures and a cooling ocean breeze.
The term itself “Land of Eternal Spring” was first used to give the image of a country and countryside that was in perpetual bloom. The highlands and mid lying ground is ideal for cultivating plants that are nourished by the volcanic ground – and so can be found in bloom almost all year round. Flower cultivation and export (primarily roses) continues to be a major industry in Guatemala today – in fact one of the largest rose farms in the world can be found just outside the ancient capital of Antigua.
The name however is a bit of a misnomer as In Guatemala there are two seasons, as common in the climate of the northern tropics: the dry season and the rainy season. The longer season is the rainy season, which lasts from May through October (often with a pleasant intermission in August) followed by the dry season which lasts from January through April.